Schiaparelli: The Rise, The Fall and The Resurgence

Courtesy of Claudia Limaverde Costa

Schiaparelli is where fashion becomes art. Elsa Schiaparelli was a force of nature, never afraid to provoke conversation through her designs. She celebrated artistic movements such as Surrealism and used their techniques to revolutionise the fashion industry. Trompe-l’oeil and abstract concepts were cultivated to perfection within her Maison. Her designs were created for the modern woman, empowering her with freedom and confidence through her attire.

One of Elsa Schiaparelli’s earliest trompe-l’œil designs featured a bow motif rendered in stark black and white. The design invites multiple interpretations: a pierced heart, a bow, a skeleton, or even a sailor’s tattoo. This jumper marked an early moment in which Schiaparelli transformed fashion into art; depending on the viewer, the garment reveals something entirely different.

Her mentor and close friend, Paul Poiret, was a significant influence during her early career. He was known for abandoning rigid corsetry in favour of a more natural, liberated silhouette—an approach that Schiaparelli would later adopt and reinterpret within her own work. Notably, she had no formal training in pattern-making or fashion design. Instead, her creations were driven by instinct and spontaneity, giving them a sense of originality that resisted replication. Her garments embodied elegance and innovation, often featuring striking adornments such as sequined, chainmail-like hoods or intricate floral motifs embellishing the bodice of otherwise understated black dresses.

Her friendship with Salvador Dalí bridged the gap between art and fashion, transforming her designs into wearable art. As a leading Surrealist, Dalí shared a similar attitude towards art to that which Schiaparelli held towards fashion: both sought to transform their respective disciplines into something modern, provocative, and slightly absurd. Their shared fascination with reimagining ordinary objects as conversation pieces made them a formidable creative partnership.

One of their most notable collaborations was the Lobster Dress. Inspired by Dalí’s iconic Lobster Telephone, Schiaparelli translated Surrealist symbolism into couture. The Lobster Telephone itself combined sexual suggestion with an everyday object, often interpreted as a playful reference to obscene phone calls.

Throughout their friendship, they grew increasingly close. In one of Salvador Dalí’s paintings, he referenced a childhood story told by Elsa Schiaparelli. As a child, Schiaparelli considered herself unattractive and, in an attempt to remedy this, placed flower seeds in her mouth, nose, and ears, imagining that her face would bloom like a flower. Instead, the act led to her being hospitalised. Dalí later transformed this memory into art, portraying her with a face blossoming with flowers.

In 1954, Elsa Schiaparelli chose to close her Maison after two decades in business. She died peacefully in her sleep in 1973. In 2012, Schiaparelli was revived by Diego Della Valle, owner of Tod's. The house experienced a renewed cultural relevance through the remarkable work of Daniel Roseberry, who was appointed creative director in 2019. Roseberry expanded Schiaparelli’s surrealist vision, reinterpreting archival designs with a modern and theatrical sensibility.

With Daniel Roseberry at the helm of the Maison, and as the first American-born creative director of a French fashion house, many eyes were on his debut collection. Yet the show contained a deliberate and intelligent twist. Rather than remaining behind the scenes, Roseberry placed himself at the centre of the runway in casual attire and headphones, exposing the creative process and allowing the audience to witness what usually remains unseen. As his designs moved elegantly around him while he appeared immersed in thought, a striking juxtaposition emerged between creator and creation.

Since presenting that first collection only two months into his tenure, Roseberry has established himself as one of the most visionary creative directors of the 21st century. His meticulous eye for detail and deep respect for Schiaparelli’s legacy distinguish him from his contemporaries. Rather than distancing himself from the origins of the Maison, Roseberry fully embraces the surrealist and dramatic spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli’s work. He grounds his creations in the past while modernising them in a way that allows them to feel both timeless and contemporary.

One of Daniel Roseberry’s most revolutionary bodies of work was his 2021 haute couture collection, inspired by the intricacy and theatricality of the matador. He described it as “a rebellion against beauty,” in which freedom and unapologetic allure became recurring motifs throughout the collection. Among the standout pieces were the iconic jackets associated with Schiaparelli, reimagined through a matador lens and divided into four distinct sections. The sleeves were ornately decorated with anatomical features of the face, with the left arm embellished in gold three-dimensional noses and mouths. This acted as a tribute to the surrealist foundations of Schiaparelli, provoking conversation through its striking and unconventional form.

Another notable look from the collection paid homage to the 1937 collaboration between Elsa Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau. Based on Cocteau’s drawing of two profiles framing a vase of roses, the original design exemplified Schiaparelli’s beloved trompe-l’œil effect. Embroidered onto an evening jacket by Maison Lesage, the double-image composition captivated Surrealist audiences through its shifting interpretation. At first glance, the linear design appears as two figures facing one another; on closer inspection, the negative space reveals a vase overflowing with roses. 

With this imagery in mind, Daniel Roseberry reinterpreted the motif by focusing on the abundance of the roses, creating a sculptural wool-crepe curved-sleeve mini dress. The bustier and sleeves were richly embroidered with pink roses, transforming the historic Surrealist illusion into a modern couture statement.

His 2024 haute couture collection, titled The Phoenix, further demonstrates Daniel Roseberry’s exceptional attention to detail and profound respect for craftsmanship. The title itself evokes themes of rebirth, transformation, and renewal—ideas that have long defined both Schiaparelli and Roseberry’s own creative direction. Through this collection, he explored the tension between fragility and power, creating garments that felt both sculptural and emotionally charged.

One look in particular featured a structured ivory bodice paired with a dramatic, wide-sweeping tulle skirt, heavily adorned with Swarovski crystals. The contrast between the rigid architecture of the bodice and the softness of the expansive skirt created a striking balance between discipline and fantasy. The crystals caught the light with every movement, giving the garment an ethereal radiance and reinforcing the idea of rising from darkness into brilliance.

Another standout design presented a sleek black silhouette enveloped by silver wings. The wings appeared almost protective, transforming the model into a mythological figure suspended between strength and vulnerability. Their metallic finish contrasted sharply against the darkness of the garment, creating a sense of drama synonymous with the Maison’s heritage. This interplay between shadow and illumination echoed the symbolism of the phoenix itself: destruction followed by rebirth, despair transformed into beauty.

One may argue that Schiaparelli died with Elsa Schiaparelli; however, Daniel Roseberry’s commitment to honouring her legacy while simultaneously creating a world of his own is deeply inspirational. Rather than merely replicating the past, Roseberry continually reimagines it, proving that heritage and innovation can coexist. He consistently demonstrates his ability to preserve the surrealist spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli while translating it into a contemporary and distinctly personal language. Each garment is meticulously constructed, yet emotionally resonant, showing that couture can exist not only as fashion but also as narrative, symbolism, and art. Through his vision, Schiaparelli has not remained in history - it has been reborn for a new generation.

You can learn more about the brand and the brand's history at the 'Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art' Exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Open until November 8th

All Images Courtesy of Author

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Edited by Arielle Sam-Alao, Co-Fashion Editor