A Bône To Pick?

All images credited to Sayema Islam

Short ribs. Unlimited fries. A top secret location. 

We didn't know what to expect when we finally got a reservation for Bône, one of the newest restaurants on the London food scene. 

Passing through dingy alleyways, and the graffitied walls of Hoxton, it was a quest to find the elusive spot. As we entered through the billowing crimson curtains, the room was illuminated by the yellow glow of candlelight. 

Suddenly, the damp feeling of October washed away, and the ambiance of a cozy French bistro set in. 

FIRST BITES:

The set menu comes with a selection of fresh bread, a choice of two mains and three desserts, all for £40. In the financial drain that is London, this was truly a wondrous offer to behold.

The Japanese milk style bread was pillowy soft, and especially good when lathered with parmesan butter. 

We also splurged on a Caesar Salad to hit our health goals, albeit it was tossed in a creamy dressing, and buried under a mountain of shaved parmesan. 

To drink, a sugarcane , lime and mint mocktail paired beautifully with the starters, with its floral and grassy notes. 

SHORT RIBS GALORE:

Now, the moment we had been waiting for, the glorious short ribs. The set menu also offered salmon, though the beef short ribs had been holding up my FYP hostage. I could not pass up trying them. 

Slow-cooked for 8-hours, the short ribs melted in the mouth, drenched with herby entrecote sauce and crispy frites. The first few bites were decadently rich. 

But then the richness took over; the fat from the meat, the butter from the sauce, even the frites started to feel heavy. The caesar salad provided some much-needed contrast but ultimately failed to rescue the dish from monotony.

The ‘highlight’ of the night started to feel like a chore. And that’s never a good sign...

A touch of acidity was needed here to cut through the richness. A cucumber salad was also on offer, and I wonder if that would have provided some relief. Nevertheless, the conception of the dish felt incomplete. 

SWEET DISSAPOINTMENT?

A choice of three desserts were on offer that evening, and we opted for the Brown Butter French Toast and the Blueberry Crumble. 

The French toast, with the caramelized crust and vanilla laced cream was pleasant to eat, but again felt incomplete. A sour element would have aided in the vibrancy of the dish. 

Moving onto the crumble: a more cohesive dessert, with the stewed blueberries providing the tartness against the nutty oat crumble, topped with silky custard. Still, it fell short of delivering the show-stopping ending diners deserved.

THE CRACKS IN BÔNE:

For all of its simple elegance, there’s an emptiness to Bône that even the price can’t pacify. 

Food isn’t just about consumption. It is entertainment. It is drama. 

The drama has successfully been integrated into the decor and ambience of the restaurant but is seemingly missing from the execution of the meal. The theatricality, and the whimsy, is what makes restaurants memorable, and the Bône runs the risk of being forgettable. 

But the good news? Only a few changes are needed to transform the experience. The gentle crack of a creme brulee, or the surprise of a chocolate melting dome are part of the theatrics that allows you to appreciate the simplicity of the food. 

The modern flair that is mentioned on the website needs further development. A closer attention to contrast and balance in flavour profiles could also be a real game-changer. 

However, even with all the critiques, I’m rooting for Bône. From the get-go, the energy is infectious. It almost feels like a school production, where the camaraderie and determination of the team inspires you to try something new. 

Hopefully by its second act, Bône tells a more complete story.

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Edited by Emily Bunder, London Editor