LFW SS26 - INF DARK - Interview - Sculpted Rebellion And 80s Nostalgia Reimagined

Hannah Breen and Theoniki Dribusch
7 hours ago
4 min read

Striding out in the new boots I had deliberately chosen for Fashion Week, I exited the previous show and re-emerged into the hum of London. The spell of the haut monde dissolved in an instant, replaced by the prosaic rush of the city. But there was no time to linger; INFDark awaited me. I set off from Bishopsgate towards Spitalfields at a purposeful pace, my runway-ready look feeling faintly incongruous beside the stream of bankers spilling from their offices. I checked my phone: ‘Red leather blazer and knee-high boots,’ my co-writer had texted, so that I could spot her in the crowd. Moving through the seemingly endless queue stretching down the street, I found her, and together we watched impeccably dressed guests strike effortless poses for the cameras, each frame a masterclass in sprezzatura. Led to our seats, we watched the lights dim and the music rise, drawing us into a vivid 1980s tribute to self-expression and individualism.

As the models glided out one by one, we were instantly immersed in the decadent spirit of the 1980s. The impeccably sculpted tailoring that defines INFDark felt arresting, innovative, and entirely magnetic. At the heart of the show was a sense of adaptability, with pieces designed to be transformed and worn in multiple ways. Several looks featured carefully selected fabrics inspired by the Memphis movement, a radical 1980s design collective known for rejecting minimalism in favour of bright, clashing colours, bold geometric shapes and unexpected materials, evoking the decade’s audacious spirit, playful patterns and a mix of kitsch and elegance brought a rebellious, whimsical energy, reimagining the Memphis spirit for today's wardrobe.

This playful, rebellious energy carried through every look on the runway. The outfits were bold, exuberant, and above all, effortlessly cool. Among the standout looks were sculptural two-piece ensembles, whose mirrored fabrics and impeccable tailoring created a balanced silhouette.

Another look that instantly drew the eye was a Neon turtleneck paired with check-pattern overalls, channelling the bold colour-blocking and eclectic layering of the rebellious 1980s punk-inspired street fashion. Elsewhere on the runway, the checkered cardigan, cropped yet effortlessly loose, captured a playful and sporty spirit. The check pattern alludes to punk and skate subcultures, evoking the classic checkerboard Vans design of that era. The trousers, relaxed with a tie-waist detail, felt modern and effortless, while neon socks with sandals delivered a bold statement, balancing an air of nostalgia with contemporary cool.

Kuo Wei masterfully bridged nostalgia and innovation, transforming the excess of the 1980s and the geometric spirit of the Memphis movement into a study of modern sophistication. The collection radiates confidence and intent, reworking bold silhouettes and playful textures. It felt less like a return to the past and more like a reimagining of its energy, a reminder that true style is never confined to an era but constantly reinvented.

Behind the scenes, Fashion Scout helmed production, while Mandy Gakhal (AOFMPro, Dermalogica UK) crafted makeup looks, Diego Miranda at BTS Talent directed hair, Stevie Gatez styled, and Black PR led PR. This collaborative team effort sharpened the show’s creative edge.

Following the show, our writers went backstage to interview the designer, Kuo Wei, to ask him about his inspirations behind the collection:

Your brand has become known for garments that transform. How did you approach the idea of shapeshifting this season, and how has it evolved from your past collections?

Kuo Wei: In this season, we tried more to bring balance with the retro and modern-day tastes. All of the hard work and strength have been devoted to exploring this balance. We don’t want to just recreate the 80s; instead, we wanted to open up a whole new dimension where retro and future could speak together in INF’s language. We still do have a lot of transformative elements in this collection, but just in a more subtle way compared to previous seasons, when we turned tote bags into t-shirts or skirts into trousers.

This collection is titled “Back to the 80s.” How do you interpret that era, both visually and culturally? Are you working with nostalgia, or reinventing it into something new?

Kuo Wei: For me, the most important part of the 80s was the diversity. People were truly and authentically themselves, without obsessing over statistics or numbers, and they were free in how they expressed who they were. That’s the spirit I want to bring back today, in a time when almost every style has already been recycled. With this collection, we wanted to reintroduce that sense of freedom and individuality.

In earlier collections, like AW25’s “Raven”, you explored cultural mythologies from Taiwan, the Nordics, and Greece. Does this new collection weave in any cultural or symbolic narratives alongside its 80s inspirations?

Kuo Wei: This time, the way we did this collection was purely into the 80s, but not just from one place. We sampled elements from everywhere: Japan, Taiwan, Europe, and America. We wanted to capture what was happening globally during the decade and mesh it together. That mix itself reflects the spirit of the 80s.

Beyond the usual clichés of 80s fashion, what less conventional inspirations did you explore in this collection?

Kuo Wei: The '80s were the era when hip-hop really started to rise, so we incorporated sportswear influences, especially in the women’s jackets. We wanted to explore how sportswear and tailoring could coexist, for example, by balancing sportswear elements with blazers. And of course, I always like to deconstruct elements, to break things apart and combine them in unexpected ways.

You’ve described INF as a brand “for the rebels, sociopaths, kinkies”. How does that provocative identity shape your approach to design, especially in this collection?

Kuo Wei: For us, that phrase means we refuse to set boundaries. INF should be a space where everyone feels welcome, whether you see yourself as a rebel, a sociopath, or a kinky, you are accepted here. It’s about creating diversity and building a platform that feels like a refuge for anyone who wants to be themselves.