American Dreaming: 40 Years of Ralph Lauren Spring Collections.
- Gioia Birt
- May 13
- 6 min read
1985 to 2025 – Ralph Lauren’s Spring Ready-To-Wear Collection – What’s Changed?
In my mind, Ralph Lauren seems to be one of the only fashion labels in our present day that has a true claim to the word ‘timeless’. From elegant and effortless silhouettes to iconographic details, Ralph Lauren truly feels like a brand that has managed to stay true to its roots.
Or has it? Upon stumbling into the Sloane Square store, I found myself bombarded by a plethora of primary-colours that could not help initially calling to mind a fresh set of Crayola super-tips. The bright coloured RL polo is nothing new, but these hues had leaked into the design of shoulder bags, linen shirts and ombre cable knit sweaters. Are we coming into a new era of RL design, away from the star-spangled-all-American colour palette? Or, more importantly, is orange the new navy?
This harrowing experience compelled me to contemplate and research prior decades of ready-to-wear Spring collections from the brand, to investigate how and if changes have occurred. Of course, this is a vague and potentially huge undertaking, especially for a student knee-deep in exam season, so to make this ‘doable’ we will meander through the general Spring trends of women’s ready to wear collections, across each decade from 1985 to 2025, spotlighting collections that particularly intrigue me. Technicalities aside, grab your American flags and don your Polo shirts – we’re going back in time - and season - to pay homage (or not), to the Ralph Lauren design icons and idols of our Spring wardrobes.
For me, the 1980s is really when Ralph Lauren finds its design feet in the themes and motifs that would become running threads through subsequent collections. One being it’s ‘made to be worn’ ethos that can be seen in collections like Santa Fe (1981), and individual pieces like comfortable, long-lasting yet elegant blue jeans and crisp white shirts that hang loosely but flatteringly on both the male and female body. Lauren emphasises his garments are ‘made to be worn’ by setting his 1986 Spring show in a homely setting, using cosy furniture from his house for guests to sit on. This collection concentrated on dresses for women – silhouettes were flowy, waistlines column, colours pastel and muted, florals prevalent. High neck designs like halter, boat, mock and turtle dominate this collection, along with hemlines that fall upon the ankle, created a functional yet strikingly elegant look. I highlight this collection as I think in an age where for many, the words ‘Ralph Lauren’ are reduced to the ‘old money’ (shudder) RL teddy-bear sweaters, there’s a tendency to forget how well Ralph can do timeless florals and feminine dress design. Moreover, it was these designs that made consumers say ‘I wanna wear those clothes’, as reported by Ralph himself.
Ah the 90s… ‘Friends’ is airing weekly and the Spice Girls have just released ‘Wannabe’ - the 20th century is winding down, but a fashion era of vitality, youth and nonchalance is just beginning. The opening florals of the 1993 Spring collection are to me, the boho-batik fun younger sister of the sensible floral patterns of the 80s. This year Ralph was really feeling the bandanas-and-dress combo, which interestingly, we haven’t really seen come back. Three years later, in the 1996 show, there’s a noticeable shift from flowy, patterned dresses to more structured suits and blazers in bold primary block colour - similar to the hues seen in the 2025 collection. Additionally, there are metallic shades, almost foil-like, in light mints, all paired with a black t-shirt underneath. The signature white shirt persists, but in a much tighter, tailored fit, with royal blue or red leather straight-leg trousers. We’ve come a long way from the early styles of the 80s - there’s an electric feel to these 90s looks, despite more minimal accessorising and stiffer looking garments.
How have we come this far and not spoken a word about shoes? Well fear not, as the Y2k kitten heel is the staple of RL’s Spring 2000 collection. This collection feels like an upheaval of Lauren’s prior design themes – we have only 3 central colours – black, white and red, as well as clear motifs like polka dots, gingham and slim silhouettes. There is a very strong sense of cohesion across the line, as well as models showing more skin than ever seen before in his collections. There is virtually no accessorising, with the exception of a few shoulder bags. Vogue runway describes this collection as "Jackie O. meets Brigitte Bardot" and Ralph Lauren terms it “sexy simplicity”. 5 years later, the collection couldn’t be more different – hemlines are long again, an abundance of airy silk dresses and skirts and EVERYTHING is white. Or, nearly white – extremely pale and delicate shades of pink and blue prevail, with garments and accessories nodding to the Jazz era (1920s-30s). A modern Daisy Buchanan would positively relish in these designs – they are the epitome of breezy.
Denim… have you missed her? She’s been MIA for a couple decades but it’s 2010 and she’s back and baggier than ever. This is a noticeably casual collection – or rather, wouldn’t look out of place on a farm. But don’t be alarmed - this is Lauren’s intention. If 2005 Spring was the hedonistic Jazz Age, then this is the Great Depression – straw hats, overalls, waistcoats, wedge heels, newsboy caps… not to mention the staunch country music playing in the background of the show. Afterall, 2010 was a time of recovery from a huge financial recession, leaving the designer to reflect on the fortitude and grit of the American nation and go back to his Western-style roots. For my fellow bookworms, think Willa Cather and John Steinbeck in terms of the landscape we’re picturing these looks against. Whilst there is colour, it’s not a very colourful collection, straying not from muted blues.
Spring 2015 was… interesting. Where I’ve undoubtedly loved every collection up until this point, I fall short at 2015. It is both the details and collective look that just doesn’t feel classic RL. First, the combination of bright purples, yellows and oranges with an abundance of khaki just isn’t compatible. Second, the fit of the clothes, particularly the trousers, do not look effortless, elegant or comfortable, with khaki, slim-fitting military trousers dominating the collection. Third and final - in this collection, orange was the new blue. I don’t think that needs much explanation.
2020… While you were mindlessly sipping whipped coffee and learning TikTok dances, Mr Lauren was busy redefining women’s fashion for the next decade. Gigi Hadid, Taylor Hill and Grace Elizabeth are decked out in tuxedo-style suits, complete with cummerbunds, mini-bowties and wide leg trousers. These looks encouraged back the staple wide leg work-trouser that’s now a 21st century working woman staple and kick-started a trend of women wearing suits rather than dresses on red carpets. Despite this, the 2020 collection feels like a bold move but not one that will last through the cruel passage of time – there’s just too much shiny black texturing and maybe it’s just me, but the materials just look cheaper than before. It feels a little… West Egg.
And here we are! Back in the present – 2025 for both Ralph Lauren and I almost feels like a homecoming. Things finally feel ‘normal’ after an odd and prolonged readjustment period from COVID, and it feels like people are finally unplugging themselves from the micro-trend matrix that dominated the last 5 years, (I might however be optimistic in this though.) More importantly, the Spring 2025 ready to wear collection is, for the most part, dazzling – the label calls it ‘coastal elegance and timeless American style’ – which I would agree with. The show is titled ‘Ralph Lauren in the Hamptons’ and I only wish I could have been there sitting among the likes of Tom Hiddleston and First Lady Jill Biden. This collection finally feels like we’re coming back to something authentically and unapologetically Ralph Lauren. Colours are elegant and relaxed blues, whites and browns. The variation of earthy, soft and silky textures feels balanced and natural, paying homage to the coastal setting. My hesitance comes toward the end of the runway show, when we’re introduced to some more… experimental looks shall we say. There’s a lot of varsity merchandise and a strong prevalence of orange, green and yellow, all aspects that feel slightly alien to the traditional RL vision. Yet, there are a few classic gems earlier in this collection that outshine the odd bods at the end: The blue gradient sequin dress is something of a futuristic icon, a gorgeous navy blazer with gold buttons returns and this season’s belts and bags sat harmoniously with the clothes.
Finally, we’ve come to the end of our expedition through the great plains of Ralph Lauren. After a few minor lumps and bumps from 2015-2020, it feels like the well rooted Ralph Lauren tree grows fruitfully into another era of Spring fashion. Does this trend reflect a resurgence of 'traditional' values in our political and societal spheres, or are we simply rediscovering our fashion roots after our wardrobes became overwhelmed by fleeting microtrends? Either way, Ralph Lauren’s enduring style and unrivalled design is here to stay, a timeless and irreplaceable staple of the elegant Americana wardrobe.
Written by Gioia Birt
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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