LFW SS26 - Ray Chu - An Oceanic Love Story

Image by Olu Ogunshakin courtesy of Dyelog PR

Ray Chu’s highly anticipated SS26 presentation in collaboration with Tenga began in a neon-lit Great Hall, shrouded by a slow electronic beat. Hypnotically, models slunk into the shadowy space adorned with Chu’s latest designs, before freezing in tandem around the audience, within reaching distance. This collection is as dramatic and grand as it is soft and playful, complete with an aquatic flair. His colour palette blends an interplay of bright, evocative tones of dappled blue and hints of red, with the restraint of a muted tan and plenty of pieces in monotone dark and light.

Crisp, genderfluid silhouettes marked by cleanly cut blazers and shirts were a prominent feature of Chu’s SS26 campaign, as he has favoured in previous collections. Within this classic structured tailoring, there lies subversion - as seen in this pinstripe collared shirt, which has a striking placket twisting to the right, sleeves cinched with cuffs flaring outwards. One of his stiff shirts is shaped and cut dramatically to reveal a bare sternum. Formalwear is daringly embroidered with gleaming silver hardware, elevated by asymmetrical cuts - Chu cleanly merges and shifts from formal to casual, T-shirts and suits intermingling aside one another. The bold and universal outlines add flair to the traditional suit and imbue it with a sense of power, heightened by towering shoulder pads and sharp collars.

Underneath, models flaunted lace bralettes and barely-there slips, introducing an element of allure. Chu explained that, in contrast to his gentle oceanic tones, he “wanted to find the balance between softness and still staying sexy, strong, empowering”; this strength and power is what his work “has always been about”. The most dazzling of these pieces is a backless blazer set that glittered with swinging chains adorned with metal shells and rainbow-hued gems. From the frontal perspective, the matching set is neatly tied across the chest and lined with clear crystals - it is only after pivoting that one can observe the central spectacle of Chu’s piece. Although the sparkling stones hold a note of ornate delicacy, this carefully crafted silhouette is bold and powerful, like a contemporary interpretation of armour.

 Ray Chu is no stranger to playing with thematic influences from the natural world, such as his manta ray motifs and the iconic Plant Pot Floating Shoulder Gown from previous collections (which I was lucky enough to spot on a stunning attendee in the audience). This season, vivid blues arrest the murky depths beneath in fluid, bubble-shaped arcs, styled with spiky, intricate chains, reminiscent of medieval chainmail. He detailed the journey that led him to this collection - “the Matsu islands in Taiwan” (Chu originates from Taiwan) “are surrounded by ocean, and when the waves hit the shore at night, the bioluminescent natural cells shine brightly. This is known as Blue Tears, and you see a lot of blueish glitters in my work which reflects that”. The swirling fabrics that embody the Blue Tears physically represent the bioluminescence from the ocean, but also carry a real facet of the environment. Chu said that several of his pieces are derived from innovative natural sources: “the statement red gown is made from upcycled cocoa shells, and the semi-transparent T-shirts are made with mint fibres - you can even smell the mint”.

A prominent feature of his SS26 collection is the focus on the hook and eye fastening, transformed from utilitarian closures to statement details. These fastenings are used either functionally or as a simple adornment, such as when they line the lace-trimmed panel slanting across a pair of pinstripe bloomers. 

“With this collection,” he stated, “I wanted to try something new, something I didn’t do in previous collections, to try and open the audience to seeing diverse ways of evolving into something new and most importantly fun. I wanted to play with texture, and not remain so flat”. My favourite piece that included this detail is a sweetheart neckline black dress with a flaring hem, shaped like a corset but with hook and eye fastenings as boning. Contoured by these elevated closures, the contrast of the feminine bust plunges from the drama of the shoulder structuring and brings to life Chu’s vision precisely - sexy, strong, and powerful.

All images by Olu Ogunshakin courtesy of Dyelog PR

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Written by Hannah Tang

Edited by Co-Fashion Editor Arielle Sam-Alao