Anna Wintour to Step Down as Vogue Editor-in-Chief: A Retrospective on Her Legacy
- Claudia Limaverde Costa
- Jul 12
- 5 min read
In 1988, a seismic shift swept through the glossy pages of Vogue with the arrival of Anna Wintour as editor-in-chief. Gone were the tightly framed, polished close-ups that had long defined the magazine. In their place emerged a captivating fusion of high fashion and street-smart accessibility — a visual language that felt both aspirational and real.
This transformation was unmistakably heralded by Wintour’s very first cover: a then-rising model, Michaela Bercu, styled in a jeweled Christian Lacroix couture jacket — effortlessly paired with a simple pair of faded jeans. A fashion paradox? Perhaps. But more so, a statement. As Wintour herself recalled, the image “looked easy, casual, a moment that had been snapped on the street — which it had been — and which was the whole point.” Thus began a new era of Vogue: one where the everyday woman could see a reflection of herself between the pages, without sacrificing the fantasy. Wintour’s vision was refreshingly modern — fearlessly blending the elite with the accessible. She also broke with tradition by ushering celebrities into the fashion spotlight. In her debut year, Madonna graced the pages of Vogue, marking a pivotal moment where pop culture and haute couture began to harmoniously coexist. Her cover — a minimalist yet powerful statement — radically reshaped the magazine’s visual language. Set against the shimmering blue of a swimming pool, Madonna emerged from the water with slicked-back wet hair, her piercing blue eyes and bold red lips commanding attention. The image, both raw and glamorous, created a timeless visual that redefined fashion editorial aesthetics. Over the decades, Wintour has redefined what it means to be a fashion icon, placing both supermodels and superstars beneath the magazine’s iconic Vogue header. Under her reign, Vogue didn’t just chronicle fashion—it shaped it. With an editorial eye that is both precise and daring, Wintour has made fashion feel at once untouchably chic and irresistibly within reach.
Not only did Wintour harmonise the bridge between celebrities and supermodels, but she also introduced new talent to grace the cover — not just models, but also photographers — in a culturally redefining way. In September 1989, a then nineteen-year-old rising model, Naomi Campbell, appeared in an eloquent orange sequined suit against a softly blurred blue background. The light danced beautifully over the sequins, adding an embellished, radiant effect. The suit was paired with a multi-layered pearl necklace and gold hoop earrings adorned with delicate pearl drops. Campbell's stunning smile brought life and joy to the image, creating, once again, the ideal of the everyday girl radiating pure joy. This cover was significant in two major ways: it marked Campbell’s first appearance on the cover of Vogue and was also Anna Wintour’s first September issue as editor-in-chief.
Wintour went on to reinvent the September issue itself, calling it "bigger than Vogue"—elevating it to a cultural moment akin to the SuperBowl for the fashion industry. This issue became a global anticipation point: not only were people eager to see who would appear on the most iconic cover of the year, but they also looked forward to discovering the essential wardrobe items for the summer-to-fall transition. September became the month for creative directors worldwide to showcase their vision, innovation, and craftsmanship—coinciding with the globally significant Spring/Summer fashion weeks.
Another new talent Wintour helped launch was photographer Tyler Mitchell, who became the first African American photographer to shoot the cover of Vogue. The result was an opulent image of Beyoncé, adorned with a stunning floral bouquet worn as a headpiece. Complementing the grandeur of the headpiece, Beyoncé wore a simple yet striking white dress, embellished with ruffled sleeves and a high collar. Beyoncé emphasized the importance of collaborating with the then 23-year-old photographer, stating that it was her duty to help open doors for others. She explained, “There are so many cultural and societal barriers to entry that I like to do what I can to level the playing field, to present a different point of view for people who may feel like their voices don’t matter.” Launching new talent has always been of utmost importance to Wintour.
Wintour played a pivotal role in the careers of renowned designers such as John Galliano, helping to elevate his profile during his time at Givenchy. Wintour supported Galliano by securing top models like Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Linda Evangelista for his runway shows—an influential move that amplified his visibility in the industry. She also helped pave the way for his appointment as head designer at Givenchy and later supported his transition to Dior, where he further cemented his legacy. Wintour also strengthened the career of Alexander McQueen, a provocative and visionary designer, by championing his work in Vogue. Her consistent support helped solidify McQueen's reputation and introduced his bold aesthetic to a broader international audience. Following McQueen’s passing, Wintour remarked that his brand “brought a uniquely British sense of daring and aesthetic fearlessness to the global stage of fashion,” and described his impact on the industry as “astonishing.”
In addition to supporting Marc Jacobs and helping him establish his place within the fashion industry, Wintour made a bold decision for the December 2024 issue of Vogue by inviting Jacobs to serve as a guest editor. This allowed Jacobs to fully immerse himself in the creative process, further solidifying his presence in the fashion world. The cover featured Kaia Gerber in an avant-garde gown, characterized by an off-the-shoulder neckline and an Egyptian blue fabric, paired with a bold pink overskirt secured by a pink bow. The gown was complemented by white latex gloves that extended over the elbow, fitting tightly until they tapered off. Gerber’s hair was styled in an exaggerated, over-the-top bob, and her makeup mirrored the porcelain doll aesthetic famously used by Galliano in his last collection, paired with striking firetruck-red lipstick. The backdrop was a dramatic sage green, creating a striking contrast that set this issue apart from others. This cover marked a shift in Wintour's approach, with a fresh creative energy that was both unexpected and captivating.
Apart from Wintour’s reinvention of Vogue magazine, she has also played a major role in redefining the fashion industry as a whole. She has been instrumental in raising funds for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute and transforming the Met Gala into one of the most coveted events on the fashion calendar. As part of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), Wintour helped establish a collaboration between the CFDA and Vogue to provide both mentorship and financial support for emerging talent. Reflecting on her legacy, Wintour once said, “Now I find that my greatest pleasure is helping the next generation of impassioned editors storm the field with their own ideas,” following her announcement of stepping down as editor-in-chief. Wintour has not only reinvented the Vogue brand but has also helped globalise the fashion industry, making it a cultural force that people around the world eagerly follow each year. Her legacy has left an indelible mark on the fashion world—one that will continue to influence designers, editors, and tastemakers for generations to come.
Written by Claudia Limaverde Costa
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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