LFW SS26 - Nathan Slate - Interview - ‘Mourning’ At Ones to Watch

Image courtesy of Black PR

Fashion Scout's ‘Ones to Watch’ was the first for many. It was the first for some designers to showcase their collection at London Fashion Week, the first for some models to walk the runway, and it was my first show to cover this vibrant fashion season. As I waited for the show to begin, there was a buzz of excitement and anticipation outside the venue, eager to witness the designs from emerging talent. 

Each collection was full of soul, passion and artistry, but a collection that caught my eye in particular was Nathan Slate's ‘Mourning’. It was a collection that reexamined the concept of sustainability, leaving the audience with something to reconsider. Needless to say, Slate debuted in London Fashion Week with a statement by bringing a different perspective to the conversation. 

The atmosphere of the runway changed as the first model walked down the runway as if time had slowed down. The audience that was once chipper quickly mellowed, fixated on the somewhat ghostly figure. Compared to the energising presentations of the previous designers, the model trudged along as if they were in ‘Mourning’. This design consisted of a loose silhouette with dark blue patches of dye sprawled across. Combined with the model's covered face, this piece conveyed a sombre tone, of something non-human, fragile and grappling with loss.

I caught up with him backstage to hear his thoughts about his artistic vision. I was initially curious to learn how he interpreted sustainability in his designs, "I've been commissioned by the British Arts Council to do a couple of installations, questioning the environment and sustainability, so when it came to this collection I used a lot of my textiles from that installation but it wasn't necessarily a 'this is what sustainability is', it was more of a question." 

In contrast to other models, the slower walks gave the audience time to dwell on this concept and process each design, "Maybe having synthetic materials can last longer than these sustainable cottons. I believe sustainability is an umbrella - it's not understood yet, there's no answer."

Whilst many designers seek to conjure fresh creations for each collection, Slate explores how to utilise them for longer. Pieces such as this repurpose his crocheted cocoons from a previous installation, and the knitting has been set with concrete, grappling with the idea of whether "making something natural last forever" is the "answer to sustainability." He uniquely ponders on sustainable practices, not only through his final product but also through his process, "I'm [normally] given a topic and I run with that - a lot of my art is textile based," the designer expands on his creative process, "because I work in sustainability, I always look for ways of making my art last longer than just the two-week exhibition."

Another aspect of Slate’s work that I was drawn to was how expressive, raw, and full of emotion each garment was. A show-stopping piece was one with a striking silhouette that embodied a cloud, commanding your attention.. The cloud was fashioned with alpaca wool, providing its delicate and fragile look. However, this fragility alongside the model's measured walk and pensive stare presented this piece as a harbinger of an ominous reality without reevaluating sustainable practices. Curious, I asked Slate about his art as an expressive outlet, "It's always been [...] a place to put my questions rather than journaling, I guess - my art is always like that. If I feel the need to say something or I want to work out answers, I would work that into my art so it's like an endless project," he described this as an "organic process."

This "organic process" isn't just limited to Slate’s thoughts but also in the materials he uses. A charming feature of his art is how it used natural pigments and distinctively utilised rainwater to colour his craft, such as this garment (4). "It takes around two weeks for it to be finished because I can't wash it in a machine," he begins to describe the extensive process, "I paint it with an actual pigment and then leave it outside. It dries, and then it rains, and then it dries. In my studio, there's just an endless supply of fabric, and then I always end up finding a place to put it in the end." Needless to say, this natural process has a stunning effect: "It's like therapy to me to see the fabrics on the washing line, it's really beautiful." I dwelled on this for a moment - many artists in the pursuit of perfection often forget to enjoy the process - Slate reminds us that the act of creating is not all about the final product. 

When I asked about what initially drew him to his craft, he explained, "I went to an all-boys Catholic school and we weren't allowed to do sewing and we weren't allowed to do any cooking, so when I [attended] college, I was able to join [...] on an art course. I really fell in love with it because I had done a lot of photography and stuff like that in my school. It spiralled from there because it almost felt like a rebellion."

His collection is a soft act of rebellion through his process, design, and presentation on the runway. Each garment is conceptually entwined with the other, and together they promote a wider message.

In light of his approach to artistry, I asked if there is anything he would experiment with in a future collection. "I really want to do a collaboration with a shoe company. I'm really interested in the sustainable aspects of shoe design. I really want to use dead stock shoes and create shoes like in this collection." Slate began to explain his interest in upcycling, something that is becoming increasingly popular with fashion designers, "The reason they haven't been sold is because people aren't interested in that design anymore, so instead of putting them in the bin or selling them cheap, we should redesign what we've got."

The designer reinvented the original designs of the shoes in his collection. Through repurposing and combining them with his fabrics and techniques, he created shoes that appear to have been designed for this collection. His craftsmanship and dedication to his values are clearly on display here. Slate's craftsmanship is nothing short of artistry and flair. It is rich with stories and unique techniques - considering his stellar debut, I am eager to see what he creates for his next collection. 

All images courtesy of Black PR

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Written by Kaavya Guhan

Edited by Roxy-Moon and Arielle Sam-Alao