V&A’s Fashion in Motion: CPHFW - a Dynamic Display of Danish Designs.
- Hannah Philcox-Booth
- 40 minutes ago
- 4 min read
Denmark may be small, but it’s becoming a mighty force in the fashion sphere. Yes, this country that gifted us Lego and Carlsberg is now quickly producing some of the most trendsetting fashion. Copenhagen Fashion Week is the largest fashion week in Northern Europe, and with the current adoration of ‘Scandi-style’, it is quickly garnering the same respect as its big siblings, such as Paris or London Fashion Week. And, a show at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum at the end of May exemplified Denmark’s fashion craftsmanship. Â
The V&A’s Fashion in Motion are a series of live fashion shows that transform the museum's grand halls into a runway. The V&A flex their commitment to showcasing a diverse range of talent – from iconic legends to boundary-pushing new designers. It is the perfect example of cultural experiences that define life in London. And the most recent was a collaboration with Copenhagen Fashion Week.
The style of Scandinavian countries is often characterised as minimalist, functional, and timeless. But there is an argument that much of the fashion in Scandinavia is boring. Sure, everyone in Copenhagen looks very stylish, but only in a conforming, uniform way (a sea of baggy jeans and Solomon QT-6s) – it could be argued that there is a lack of individuality. However, seeing the array of designers shown at the Fashion in Motion show completely disproves such a notion.
The five Danish designers each presented six looks portraying their artistry and providing an exemplification of their varying individual innovativeness. Amongst them, four were picked as CPHFW NEWTALENT designers, alongside the 2024 Wessel and Vett Fashion Prize winner.
First to grace the runway was Bonnetje’s ensembles. Bonnetje aligns with the Scandinavian prioritisation of sustainability by using defunct materials and breathing new life into them. Taking old suits and cutting them up, Bonnetje reassembles these pieces into stunning new silhouettes and styles. Do these designs pioneer new aesthetics? No, but they do offer a unique utilisation of fashion’s circularity. And these changes to the clothes' structure and cuts create a dichotomy: while being sleek and sophisticated, there is an added boldness made by the transformation these reused materials have undergone. These silhouettes almost echo Mathilde Djerf’s famous aesthetic but with a sharp, rebellious edge. A powerful start to the show, these pieces immediately captured the audience’s attention, and I must admit stood out as my personal favourite.
Next on display were the designs of Stamm, who also reflect the wider Scandinavian ethos of sustainability: their materials are consciously sourced, and their clothes are consciously made. Stamm’s looks have a certain duality; they are calm yet bold. It offers a new dynamic approach to street style in a high-fashion form, seemingly hyperbolising the frequent blueprint of baggy trousers and puffer jackets.
Next, rooted in themes of function, nature and calm, Berner Kohl proves the ability to evoke feeling with the strength of utility rather than excess or theatrics. A whisper rather than a shout, it’s a study on subtlety. Berner Kuhl was also arguably the most stereotypically Scandinavian-looking: calm, collected, and cool. With neutral tones and simple tailoring, the artfulness lies in how the clothes are, first and foremost, functional with the bonus of being fashionable.
The penultimate set of designs were by Stem, which was the Recipient of the 2024 Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize: Scandinavia’s most prestigious fashion design award, celebrating entrepreneurship and creativity - core values that Stem embodies. Indeed, Stem embodies Danish ingenuity and business initiative that even the likes of Ole Kirk Christiansen (the founder of Lego) would be proud of. This zero-waste brand specialises in woven garments and is a masterclass in combatting overproduction and overconsumption with resourcefulness. With weaving, cutting, and sewing methods that eradicate fabric waste on top of being visually radiant. Stem crafts for quality, not for quantity and is the type of insightful brand we should all be inspired by.
As the final designer to go, Masculina offered a grand finale with a riveting display of finesse, femininity and flair. Undoubtedly, Masculina differentiates itself from any stereotype of uniformity that Scandinavian fashion might have, proving Scandinavia has a daring side and contrasting any expectation you may have. These clothes offer a potent means of expression and individuality to those who wear them, a medium to making bold statements. As the show's final flourish, Masculina left a lasting impression.
All in all, this show demonstrated how, despite being a teeny-weeny country, regarding fashion, Denmark has a substantial array of talent. The final catwalk, bringing together all the models and designs, emphasised the breadth of expression and unique visions on display; all of which, in line with positive stereotypes, were underscored by a heartening commitment to sustainability and eco-awareness. Fashion in Motion sketched a vivid portrait of the creativity flourishing from Scandinavia’s smallest nation.
And the cherry on top? Although tickets were limited, this show was free and accessible to the public. It is such inclusive events that are needed for cultural dialogues to take place, like this one which helped strengthen the bridge between Britain and Denmark's fashion scene.
Written by Hannah Philcox-Booth
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
