Donatella Versace leaving Versace - A Retrospective Into Her Tenure As Creative Director
- Claudia Limaverde Costa
- 11 hours ago
- 5 min read
"Imperfect glamour, anti-retro, and un-minimalist" - this was how Donatella Versace described her vision for her debut SS98 collection following her brother’s passing in 1997. Now, nearly thirty years into her tenure as Versace’s creative director, that vision remains a defining force in her work. Drawing inspiration from her beloved brother, she infuses sensual details and playful elements into her designs. Through her bold reimagining of fashion, Donatella has solidified her place as a powerhouse, steering the industry toward a maximalist, hedonistic, yet undeniably sensual aesthetic.
Drawing inspiration from Gianni, Donatella’s first collection in 1998, introduced a feminine twist on classic menswear and imperfect strapless dresses, all while preserving his signature motifs of seductive glamour. She found both solace and inspiration in the heavens, paying a beautiful tribute to her brother while establishing her own stylistic identity. One standout piece was a sheer floral dress worn by Kate Moss on the runway, making a seductive yet fashion-forward statement. She paired it with a sleek ponytail and simple white stilettos, keeping the focus on the dress. Another striking look featured Linda Evangelista in a classic grey halter-neck midi dress, elevated by a mesh cutout on the bodice—offering a modern twist on a timeless silhouette.
During her tenure, Donatella has remained at the forefront of fashion, redefining industry standards, challenging conventions, and shaping the evolution of fashion week. Among her most groundbreaking collections, SS00 stands out as legendary - most notably for the now-iconic sheer jungle-print dress with a daring plunge neckline, worn by Jennifer Lopez. Beyond this unforgettable dress, the collection drew inspiration from Miami Daydream motifs and Grecian aesthetics. A striking example is a salmon-pink halter-neck gown featuring bold cut-outs at the chest and hips and was accessorised with pink ray-ban sunglasses to tie in the Miami daydream inspiration. The collection’s overarching theme remained one of seductive allure, accentuated by the provocative draping of fabric.
The SS02 collection captivated audiences with a bold statement, featuring an unforgettable look worn by Britney Spears. The gown is a beautiful medley of pinks, blues and yellows adorned with floral embellishments which dazzled under the lights. Another gown which graced the runway was an asymmetric one sleeve gown in an ombre from pink to white embellished with sequined diagonal strips to create depth and an illusion of a cinched silhouette, the train of the gown was a mermaid train in a white tulle to add juxtaposition to the skintight nature of the bodice. The gown was a sweetheart bodice combined with an asymmetric neckline to give a unique twist to a traditional neckline. The collection was inspired by bold colours and futuristic motifs as a sort of explosion of colour and an exploration of allure and sensual confidence.
SS18 marked a poignant milestone - 20 years of Donatella Versace’s creative leadership celebrating the brand’s heritage with a spectacular tribute to Gianni. The collection revived signature elements such as silk scarves, gold Medusa chokers, and Gianni’s iconic prints, including ‘Tresor de Mer’ and Warhol-style Vogue covers as well as his famous Marilyn Monroe painting. Versace added a special twist by having models walk in pairs and threes. One standout moment featured three models showcasing the Tresor de Mer print in distinct ways. The first wore a simple yet powerful beach swimsuit with a cover-up. The second donned a structured blazer over a sweetheart bustier, paired with skin tight trousers and a skirt - adding depth and transforming a traditional silhouette into a modern statement. The third model graced the runway in a classic slip dress layered under a long structured coat. In stark contrast, two vibrant, pop art-inspired pairs stood out. One pair showcased bright Vogue covers layered over vivid colors like blue, yellow, and green, while the other graced the runway adorned in Warhol’s famous Marilyn Monroe print.The finale of this collection was truly unforgettable. After 20 years, the iconic supermodels of the ’90s - Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Helena Christensen, Naomi Campbell, and Cindy Crawford - commanded the runway in stunning gold dresses, each in a unique style, creating a vision of modern-day Greek goddesses. This moment remains one of the most memorable in fashion history.
“It’s a swap rather than a collaboration, and most of all, it is done out of friendship,” said Fendi’s artistic director as they unveiled one of the most iconic collections, FENDACE, in 2022. This collection seamlessly fused the most recognisable elements of both fashion houses, creating a striking harmony between their distinct identities. The signature black-and-gold Barocco print of Versace merged effortlessly with Fendi’s classic FF Zucca print, resulting in a bold yet cohesive aesthetic. One standout piece was a halter-neck dress featuring a chest cut-out. The design incorporated Fendi’s Zucca print, with brown hues on the top and bottom, while the midriff showcased a soft pastel pink-nude tone, all layered beneath the ornate Barocco print. To complete the look, the ensemble was accessorised with a saddle-stitched tote bag, adorned with the same blend of patterns. With FENDACE, Versace and Fendi redefined the fashion industry, proving that unity in design can create something truly groundbreaking. As Donatella Versace herself declared, ‘Fendace will always mean love.’”
Now, with the FW25 collection serving as her grand farewell, she delivers a masterful culmination of her aesthetic - seamlessly intertwining the rebellious energy of punk with the elegance of ballet, all infused with her signature heightened allure and a newfound theatrical essence. To open the show, Versace showcased the synergy between art and apparel - specifically, Versace Home. In a bold design choice, duvets were incorporated into garments to create dramatic trains. One striking example featured the iconic Baroque print with hints of scarlet, adding depth and a punk-inspired edge. The duvet extended into a flowing train, transforming the piece into a modern high-low dress with a daring twist. Another reimagined classic was the little black dress. Versace reinvented this staple by using the Baroque print as its lining, drawing inspiration from the structure of a ballerina’s tutu. As the model strutted down the runway, glimpses of the opulent print were revealed, adding a dynamic and unexpected touch to an otherwise timeless silhouette.
During Donatella’s tenure as both creative director and CEO of Versace, she has demonstrated a unique ability to merge elegance with a bold, avant-garde sensibility. Her creative range is profound, seamlessly transitioning from Gianni’s classic sophistication to establishing her own distinct vision. She has drawn inspiration from tropical daydreams to historical grandeur, incorporating elements of Atlantis and Greek mythology into her designs. Donatella has undeniably cemented herself as a forerunner in reshaping the fashion industry, breaking traditional boundaries and redefining modern luxury. Through her fearless innovation, she has secured her place as one of the most influential creative directors of our time.
Written by Claudia Limaverde Costa.
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor.
