LFW AW26 - The Strength of Fragility at Genaro Rivas
- Kaavya Guhan
- 6 minutes ago
- 3 min read
On a Sunday evening in Knightsbridge, there was a hum of excitement and anticipation from everyone surrounding the entrance. It was only natural, given that this was Genaro Rivas’ sixth consecutive fashion week. Rivas has always presented collections that were fresh and innovative, and his recent collection ‘A Glass to Break’ was no exception.
The venue was lavish and glamorous, and I would soon realise how aptly it would complement the collection. At my seat, I found a note revealing the origins of the collection and the significance behind it. The notes served as an intimate space, bridging the audience closer to the collection. I thought to myself how typical of Rivas this was; he always seeks meaning and depth in his designs, and this brought us one step closer to his process.
The note detailed how Rivas was instinctively drawn to a cracked surface he encountered in Russell Square, which would go on to form this collection. It was not merely a crack or a pattern, but instead symbolised something deeper, something transformative, and something strong.
Rivas’ philosophy radiated through his captivating designs. This dress came together completely with the shards of glass. A piece on its own perhaps may not be able to do much, but the strength lies in the numbers here. The fragility of the glass juxtaposes the sharpness of the pieces, not being pressed down. They protrude from the bodice, reframing what would normally be perceived as a weakness as a source of power. Another aspect of this garment that caught my eye was the use of colour. My eyes were drawn to the red centre, the rawness within this crack. Yet this rawness has been repurposed into something beautiful and resilient. There is beauty in fragility, and we must reshape our perspective to wield it as a shield.
The designer is also renowned for his innovation, particularly his use of sustainable materials. In this collection, he used plant-based leather by Banofi, wetland-grown insulation by Ponda and next-generation biomaterials by Savian. I saw this in garments like this black leather skirt paired with a black and textured V-neck top.
The garment was held together by what looked like metal pins across the cracks. The silhouette is dramaticized, creating an emotional piece, yet the cohesiveness of it is emphasised by the smart black heel. Alongside the model's confident walk and unwavering gaze, which clearly embody this message, reflects how there is strength in healing and resilience, and one can emerge victorious.
These silhouettes were a common theme within this collection. A piece that stood out to me included an exaggerated black blazer, its sleeves drooping and extended close to the floor. Paired with it was a skirt with blue motifs. The extra fabric cascaded down the model and onto the floor with its raw edge exposed. I pondered on this aspect. It was emotional, reminding me of tears streaming down, and the raw edge like wounds that have not yet healed. But, again, whilst in isolation these aspects might seem vulnerable, however, when combined together they create a sophisticated look demonstrating that our emotions are our strength, though it is often dismissed.
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Rivas’ message of finding strength within the cracks is something that I thought was clearly conveyed in this collection. I was reminded of this by the stunning red headpiece crafted from the shards of glass. Combined with the black textured dress, there is a regal aesthetic being built. What I loved about this piece was that the headpiece is crafted like a crown, symbolising how vulnerability can become armour, that you can rebuild from what was broken.
Genaro Rivas’ philosophy and the way he carries it consistently through his craft are something I admire. I was initially drawn to his craftsmanship, but this collection stayed in my mind for its powerful message that endurance and resilience are enough to break the glass ceiling. In a world where we constantly feel defeated, Rivas’ collection was perfectly timed and a necessary reminder that despite the hardships we may face, our strength lies in our persistence, and with that, we are able to make a difference.
Images courtesy of Idea PR
Written by Kaavya Guhan
Edited by Arielle Sam-Alao, Co-Fashion Editor
