LFW SS26 - CHONA BACAOCO Vivz Fashion World - Interview - More Than What Meets The Eye

Kaavya Guhan
Oct 19
5 min read

Updated: Nov 1

‘It's not all about the race, about the size, about the age...It's really how you make the people feel included...I have talent that are in a wheelchair, blind [and] cancer survivors’. ‘Inclusion for me is that some of them dream “I wish someday I wish I could be on the runway” and me having the opportunity to [make] that dream come true is amazing’.

After finding herself in an industry which refused to accept her, Chona Bacaoco created her own world and opened her arms for others to thrive in it. I had the pleasure of witnessing her collection Sunrise flourish on the runway at Vivz Fashion World, a showcase for emerging designers' - collection that stands as a testament to her values as a designer, visionary and individual. ‘I am originally from the Philippines, but I'm based in Milan, ’ she began as I caught up with her backstage, ‘I'm the first girl to leave my island and see a bigger life behind the clouds’. The collection opened with a dazzling beaded dress perfectly reflecting the light as the model waltzed down the runway, reminiscent of a Sunrise. Combined with the sheer element, this dress was the perfect balance of elegance and boldness, reflecting her presence in the fashion industry.

I then asked her to expand on her thoughts about her collection. ‘Most of my dresses were pinned,’ she began - needless to say, I was surprised by her secret. Featuring designs such as the stunning strapless black gown embossed in intricate beading, with the skirt effortlessly cascading down into a trail you would have never guessed. ‘It's all about the person’, she begins to unravel her creative direction, ‘it's all about confidence - self-esteem is very low because it’s all about the appearance, the brand that they’re wearing. But my message is not that, it’s not all about what we’re wearing or the status of our life’.

The Philippines, 'Lagalag Meets Daragang Magayon' by ~MVI~ (warped) — The Philippines, *'Lagalag Meets Daragang Magayon' by ~MVI~ (warped)*

‘It's all about the person whom you're confident in. I am a survivor myself, and these women, I gave them the purpose of 'you're here for a reason.' This self-assurance and confidence are evident in Bacaoco’s designs; one design I was drawn to included a stunning pearl bodice that was paired with a simple black skirt. The simplicity and elegance stood out amongst other designs and exuded a quiet confidence, truly creating a statement. This sentiment is clearly echoed in her collection; the runway was filled with captivating designs distinct from each other. Aptly titled Sunrise, the collection ‘radiated hope, innocence, and the promise of a new dawn in conscious fashion’, with another favourite of mine featuring a stunning light blue dress encrusted with sequins (shown further down).

Amongst the blue there were even gold motifs, like

a sunrise.

I also quite enjoyed seeing a white strapless dress paired with a dazzling choker, which was characterised by a playful silhouette reminiscent of a cloud (similar to image above). It reminded me of steady morning light after a sunrise. Amongst the more bejewelled and extravagant pieces, this design was refreshing and a pleasant contrast to see, highlighting Bacaoco's versatility. She then disclosed another aspect of the collection: ‘most of my collections are upcycled,’ she explains, ‘during lockdown, Milan was the first city that shut down, so people were throwing fabrics because we lost hope - the fashion industry was one of the most affected’. Bacaoco reveals her reasons to pursue sustainable fashion, ‘but while they were throwing fabrics, it was an opportunity for me to pick up the fabrics’. Despite the recent push for sustainability in the industry, there is still some stigma and hesitation surrounding it. Nevertheless, Bacaoco advocates this by presenting a polished collection on the runway, proving that sustainable fashion is more accessible than some think. ‘It's not easy, ’ Bacaoco reveals the challenges that come with her stance, ‘it's very hard to cope because when you’re sustainable they [industry members] said it's expensive - it's not’.

Whilst most designers seek perfection on the runway, Bacaoco chose to be unconventional to spread a message on a big stage. I then asked her to expand more on why she chose to keep her designs pinned. ‘When you do the runway, people are expecting perfection, ’ she explained. ‘So I want people to know, especially those new upcoming designers, that you don't need to be perfect to be up there. You need to be yourself’. Whilst many designers fixate on the smallest of details, Bacaoco demonstrates how this is not a barrier to being a prominent figure in the industry. Designs such as the sophisticated blue iridescent turtleneck dress balanced with a fun short skirt are not quite finished, but are presented beautifully - the talent and expertise are undeniable. Another model flaunted a similar dress but with a long, full skirt, providing another variation for this style, blooming with elegance and a polished look. She then vocalised her message to young designers, ‘having an unfinished collection means there’s room for improvement’, a reassuring memento for emerging talents in an ever-changing industry.

Although her strong values set her apart, they presented her with many obstacles. ‘I was excluded as a designer,’ she explained, ‘nobody would really like me because they thought I was loud. ’ She wasn’t included in the fashion industry because of her 'colour [and] ethnicity’. Despite the many hurdles, Bacaoco overcame them and established her position in the industry. As she appeared on the runway to close the show, the crowd was buzzing with excitement, and the applause was long-lasting. The collection as a whole stood out to me as it does not simply focus on the radiance of a sunrise but encapsulates the cycle. Opening with dark hues, it gradually shifted to strong, blue and lacey designs, then transitioned to an iridescent shimmer. It then morphed into glistening pieces that echoed a sunrise, and then finished with dresses in pure white.

Bacaoco never took her success for granted. Even as she walked down the runway, she did not forget to thank the audience loudly and enthusiastically, acknowledging her models as she did so. Inclusivity is another pillar of her brand. Curious, given her hardships, I asked what this meant to her. ‘It's not all about the race, about the size, about the age, ’ she brings a different perspective to this conversation. ‘It's really how you make the people feel included. She began to become emotional, reflecting on her own struggles. She then spoke about her models, which she refers to as ‘talents’. ‘I have talent that are in a wheelchair, blind [and] cancer survivors’. ‘Inclusion for me is that some of them dream ''I wish someday I wish I could be on the runway” and me having the opportunity to [make] that dream come true is amazing. ’ ‘My biggest struggle was [that] I was always excluded, and now I build my own world and everyone [is] included. ’

All in all, Bacaoco's ability to create intricate designs and weave a story through them is not only a testament to her craftsmanship but also to her compassion. Each design is full of life, just as she is. Her collections are more than just clothes - they are a legacy, a story, an inspiration.